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Wine / Spirits Education in Stefan Voda
Moldova's south-eastern wine region, between the Nistru river and the Black Sea, home to the historic Purcari estate and a cluster of family wineries known for deep native reds.
Why here
Stefan Voda is where you learn Moldovan wine through its oldest estate and its most characterful red grapes. The region sits in the warm south-east, between the Nistru river and the Black Sea, and its calling card is Chateau Purcari, recognised by imperial decree in 1827 as the first commercial winery in Bessarabia and the maker of Negru de Purcari, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Saperavi and the native Rara Neagra that once reached the tables of European royalty. A short drive away at Crocmaz, the family-run Et Cetera farms its vineyards organically and sits you down with the winemaker himself. Between a grand historic chateau and a hands-on family cellar, you get two very different lessons in the same terroir, both built around the indigenous reds Feteasca Neagra and Rara Neagra that this corner of Moldova does better than anywhere. It rewards a slower, seated visit rather than a quick tasting.
Best months
The wineries pour year-round, but late spring and the September to October harvest are the times to see the vineyards working. Tastings here are seated, food-friendly and best booked ahead, especially at the family estates where the winemaker may host you. Both properties offer overnight stays among the vines, which suits the distance from the capital and the pace of the tastings.
Getting there & around
Stefan Voda lies about 100 to 120 kilometres south-east of Chisinau, roughly two hours by car, so a hired car, a driver or an organised wine tour is the practical way in, and public transport is limited. The estates are set out in the vineyards rather than in a town, so confirm tour and tasting times in advance. Both Purcari and Et Cetera have on-site accommodation, which makes an overnight the easiest way to visit without rushing the drive.
Skill levels: beginner, intermediate
Schools & guides (2)
Chateau Purcari
OutfitterChateau Purcari, in the Stefan Voda district between the Nistru river and the Black Sea, dates to 1827, when an imperial decree recognised it as the first commercial winery in Bessarabia. Its flagship red, Negru de Purcari, blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Saperavi and the native Rara Neagra and won gold in Paris in the 19th century. Among the most awarded producers in Central and Eastern Europe, it offers guided tours, tastings, a restaurant and rooms among the vineyards.
Et Cetera
OutfitterEt Cetera is a family winery at Crocmaz in the Stefan Voda district, founded by the Luchianov brothers, who farm about 27 hectares of vineyard organically. It works both international varieties and the native Feteasca Neagra, and its labels include the well-known Aeroplane range. The winemaker often leads the tasting himself, and the estate pairs cellar visits with traditional Moldovan food, a small guest house and a restaurant looking out over the vines.